WS Chronicle

TEVIN STINSON 

THE CHRONICLE  

When most people think of the food scene in Lexington, barbecue is probably the first thing that comes to mind. But for the past five years, Tyleata Jones has been changing that narrative by serving what many believe to be the best soul food in the Triad. Jones’ food has people traveling from across the country to get a taste of JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food & More.  

After selling plates out of her kitchen for several years, in December 2020 Jones opened JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food at the corner of W. 5th Ave. and Southbound St. Many consider this to be the first Black-owned restaurant and soul food restaurant in Lexington. Jones said after running into regulation issues with selling food without the proper license, she decided to take a leap of faith and open her restaurant. 

Regulations and Resistance 

“They called the health department, fire department, social services, the police – they called everybody but God. So, I called on God and did it the right way,” Jones said. “It’s illegal to sell food out of your house and now that I have a restaurant, I perfectly understand why it’s illegal … but at first I didn’t.”  

As if opening a restaurant during the pandemic wasn’t enough of a challenge, Jones also had to deal with those who didn’t want the restaurant to ever see the light of day. The same year JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food opened its doors, a Confederate monument was removed from downtown Lexington, just a few blocks away from where JJ’s Mama’s is located. Jones said because she is the first Black-owned restaurant in the city, she became a target.  

Shortly after opening, Jones started receiving hate mail and the building was vandalized several times. “They wrote me hateful letters, they wrote KKK on the side of my walls, called me atheist and all type of stuff … even with all those challenges I wasn’t going to back down,” Jones said.  

To remind her of what she has overcome, Jones has one of the letters she received hanging on the wall of the restaurant. When asked about the letter she said, “They say when life gives you lemons make lemonade. Well, I made soul food.” 

Continuing Traditions, Creating a Legacy  

For me walking into JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food is like going back in time to my grandma’s house. The waiting room has all the essentials of grandma’s living room, including the giant floor model TV and the china cabinet filled with things nobody ever dared to touch. And the food takes you back to those holidays and Sunday afternoons when everybody came together to eat a meal that was prepared with love and care.  

Jones comes from a long line of cooks and she learned the ins and outs from her mother and grandmother. From the time she was tall enough to reach the sink, she was in the kitchen doing something. “My whole family cooks and I’m the oldest … cooking is just one of the traits that you can put on your resume as the oldest, because you cook for everybody,” Jones said.  

Every Dish Made with Love 

Every plate that is served at JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food is made to order and personally made by Jones. She said the same love and passion for cooking that was instilled in her at an early age goes into everything that comes out of the kitchen.  

“It’s love, and I’m really back there making it. I’m putting in every ingredient, I make my own seasonings … but it’s really the love,” Jones continued. “I came from nothing and made something and it’s my passion. It has to be a passion in order to be good at it.”  

JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food & More offers all your soul food favorites including fried chicken, pork chops, neck bones, turkey wings, mac and cheese, collard greens and yams. They also offer grilled salmon, baked spaghetti, fried fish and shrimp, and veggie plates. There are several special dishes that you can only get at JJ’s, like Mac Delight, a mix of yams and mac and cheese.  

Another fan favorite is “The Keith Lee Special”, which is a wing boil that includes chicken wings, celery, potatoes, eggs, corn, and beef sausages. The dish is named after social media food critic Keith Lee, who travels across the country reviewing Black-owned establishments. 

Lee visited JJ’s last month and left a positive review, giving the restaurant an 8 out of 10 overall. The review of JJ’s has more than two million views on Lee’s TikTok alone. “I’m literally like one in a million … and when he came in, he was so humble and nice. Thought I was going to cry but I was too excited to cry,” Jones said. 

Since Lee’s visit, customers have been traveling from across the country to get a taste of JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food. On most days there’s a line of customers waiting outside before the doors open.  

When asked about the future of JJ’s Mama’s Soul Food, Jones said she wants to add more and to take the show on the road with a food truck. “I’m still going to be here, but I want to travel. I want to go on vacation with the food,” laughed Jones.  

For more information on JJ’s Mamas’s Soul Food & More, including a complete menu, visit their official Facebook page or call 336-843-2022 for hours and days of operation.